MDF : HOW TO BUILD YOUR SCENERY

WHAT IS MDF?

MDF stands for Medium-Density Fiberboard.
It is a wood material made by pressing wood powder with chemical adhesive.
It has many advantages that make it perfect for creating scenic elements for wargames or modeling:

• Durable
• Pre-treated (does not absorb paint)
• Easy to use
• Customizable

ADVANTAGES OF MDF (MEDIUM-DENSITY FIBERBOARD)

• DURABLE

  MDF is wood powder pressed with chemical glue, it has a uniform coloration and does not generate splinters or fibers, maintaining almost the hardness of plastic.
  This material is often mistaken for cardboard or cardstock, but in contrast, it is particularly hard, not subject to wear on its parts once assembled, and, thanks to its 3mm thickness, remains very sturdy once assembled.

• PRE-TREATED
  

  Unlike wood, MDF is non-porous, does not absorb paint, and does not need to be treated before painting.
  Additionally, it does not splinter or create fibers. Once colored, it will also lose its burnt wood smell.

• EASY TO USE
  

  Our MDF kits are pre-cut with laser precision and sold complete with assembly instructions.
  The kits are assembled by interlocking the pieces, and to secure them, all that's needed is a bit of white PVA glue for paper and wood (such as Vinavil).
  Since it's not fast-drying, it allows for adjustments in case of positioning errors, and when it dries, it becomes transparent. Avoid using super glue: it doesn't adhere well to MDF.

• CUSTOMIZABLE
  

  MDF is a highly malleable material that can be carved, textured, and damaged (battlefield structures are often adorned with hypothetical battle scars).
  With a bit of skill and creativity, you can create a one-of-a-kind kit!

LET'S CREATE OUR MDF SCENERY!

It's important to understand how to work with this material to bring it onto the battlefield.
The following steps can be used for any MDF kit.

1. Phase 1: Assembly
2. Phase 2: Primering
3. Phase 3: Painting
4. Phase 4: Textures (optional)
5. Phase 5: Modifications and damages (optional)

1. PHASE 1: ASSEMBLY

   To assemble an MDF kit, you'll need only PVA glue (like Vinavil), the classic white glue for paper and wood, and a hobby knife for any finishing touches.
   The glue, applied in the correct spots, allows you to anchor the wooden parts together to make the model very durable.
   Follow the instructions included in the kit to learn how to assemble the model! PVA glue is excellent not only for its adhesion but also because it becomes transparent once dry, allowing for the correction of positioning errors. After about 30 or 60 minutes, you'll be ready to proceed with the next steps!
   IMPORTANT: After assembling the kit, if you want to apply textures or make modifications, you should do so in this phase.
   Skip to Phase 4 and 5, then return to read Phase 2.
   If you want to proceed immediately with priming and coloring, continue reading Phase 2.
   
   

2. PHASE 2: PRIMERING

   Before painting an MDF kit, you need to use a primer, just like every modeler does with their miniatures.
   The primer prepares the model for painting, creating a uniform base on which to apply the color: given the large volumes, we suggest using an airbrush or spray can.
   The primer applied to an MDF kit also removes the typical burnt wood smell from laser cutting!
   The brand of primer isn't important; your favorite brands like Games Workshop, Vallejo, or Army Painter will work fine!
   
   

3. PHASE 3: PAINTING

   Once the primer has been applied to the MDF model, you can paint the kit just like any plastic model!
   Standard acrylic paints used for painting your models are perfect for painting scenic elements in MDF.
   There are thousands of tutorials online to draw inspiration from!
   DRYBRUSHING: We always recommend a light final drybrushing step to enhance the raised areas, edges, and any textures.
   Of course, don't forget to enhance your scenic elements with specific washes and inks.
   
   

4. PHASE 4: TEXTURES (optional)

   Applying textures to your MDF model is an optional step; our kits are rich in engraved details and three-dimensional volumes, but textures can add additional characterization, especially to ruins or the base of buildings.
   
   Take a plastic cup, pour a spoonful of sand, 3 spoons of PVA glue (Vinavil), and 1 or 2 of water. Mix vigorously to make it homogeneous and brushable (adjust the right amount according to the size of what you want to texture). Now, using a large brush, paint your model with this solution. When dry, the surfaces will show small irregularities due to the sand, adding a great touch of realism.
   
   With PVA glue, you can also apply modeling sand to the model's base, and alternatively, there are modeling textures of different grains available for sale that can give different effects. Pour the glue directly onto the areas you want to cover with sand or rocks, distribute it using a brush.
   Textures are not always necessary: sci-fi scenic elements may not need them, while medieval kits or ruins would be emphasized by them.
   Always remember that the scenic base can be treated in this way just like a model's base and could be painted to unify the MDF scenic with your Neoprene Game Mat!
   
   

5. PHASE 5: MODIFICATIONS AND DAMAGES (optional)

   This step is also optional but could make your scenery more realistic!
   
   Fantasy or historical elements: The squared corners of the MDF kit can be rounded using various tools due to the ease of carving the material: Dremel, sharp hobby knife, and sandpaper. Wooden beams, doors, or windows will gain a more lived-in and realistic appearance.
   
   Modern or science fiction elements: scratches, bullet holes, battle damage... take a look at the images here! This makes it very fun to "customize" each kit to make it unique and in line with your battlefield or army!